
Zhetysu — the modern south-eastern part of Kazakhstan, with its heart in the Almaty region — was the true spiritual, political and ideological centre of the Turkic peoples. Today Almaty is reclaiming this role, albeit in a new, urban form, argues the Turkologist Yerlan Espenbetov.
Traditionally, the origins of Turkic statehood are attributed to Altai or Mongolia, but research by Turkologist Yerlan Yespenbetov and his colleagues suggests a different version: all key events, all great kurultais, major battles, capitals and communication centres were located for the most part in Zhetysu, as well as in neighbouring regions (Maverannahr and East Turkestan). The Great Silk Road passed through these territories; here stood the ancient cities of Suyab, Balasagun, Talkhiz, Koyalyk, Talas, Ili-Balyk, Sairam, Kastek and Almalyk, along with the largest kurgan groups in Eurasia.
Turkic script, according to the most compelling hypothesis of researchers, may also have emerged here: in the area of Esik, a golden bowl from the fifth century BC bearing runic symbols was discovered. Sacred sites located on these lands played a special role for the nomads of Central Asia: Tengri-Tag (Tian Shan), Uysun-Alatau (Ili Alatau), Tamgaly Tas and Altyn-Emel. The region's most important artery, the Ili River, named in honour of the founder of the Turkic Khaganate, Ili-Kagan (Bumin), is a spiritual and sacred centre in Tengrian culture.
The smaller rivers flowing into it were named after the sons of Ili-Kagan — Kegen and Isyk. For over 2,000 years, the autochthonous inhabitants of this area were various Uysun tribes, many of whom later became representatives of the modern clans of Sary-Uysun, Shapyrashty, Ysty, Oshakty, Alban, Suan, Dulat and Zhalaiyr, Katagan.
As historical legends show, the legendary ancestor of many of the aforementioned tribes was the supreme high priest of the Mongol Empire and the eldest of the Borjigin clan (the closest relatives of Genghis Khan) — Maiky bi Uysun of the Baryn clan. In Rashid al-Din's "Compendium of Chronicles" and in "The Secret History of the Mongols", he was referred to as the Elder Khorchi Usun and bore the titles "Baga" (Maiky) and "Abak-Uysun" (literally "Forefather of the Steppe Law"), while Genghis Khan himself regarded him as his ongon (aruak).
Modern genetic research indeed confirms kinship genetic links along the male line between the Chingizids, Timurids, and Kazakhs from the clans of the Senior, Middle (clans of Abak-Kerei, Tarakty, Togykty) and Junior zhuzes (Tabyn, Ramadan and many others). The southern dialect of the Kazakh language preserved phonetic features of the ancient Turkic and Chagatai languages until the twentieth century, characterised by the use of the letter Ch instead of Sh (Charyn, ChimBulaq, Kapchagai, Chu, Chimkent, Chingeldy, Chilik) and the suffixes -ly instead of -ty (Chapyrashly, Ochakly, etc.), as well as iotation (in the southern dialect "Bu yaq" instead of the literary "Bul zhaq").
— Yerlan, what is the role of Almaty for the Zhetysu region?
— Almaty is a city habitually perceived as the cosy green capital of the Soviet intelligentsia, a centre of culture, creativity and a space of freedom. Yet beneath the mild climate and the familiar silhouette of the mountains lies a far deeper layer of history.
Almaty historically stood on the site of great ancestral jailau. Where the streets of Abai, Tashkentskaya and Makataeva now run, the caravans of the Silk Road once passed. Hence the unique concentration of kurgans around the city and the place's deep-rooted status as the sacred centre of Zhetysu.
Within the territory of the city of Almaty lies a large number of ancient Saka-Uysun kurgans. According to local legends, the largest kurgan belonged to the ruler of the ancient Wusun, recorded in Chinese sources as Wujutu. Nevertheless, his Turkic name was quite possibly Ozet (to this day, an entire neighbourhood in Almaty bears this name).
— You claim that the word "Almaty" may derive from "Albalyk". Why?
— The names "Almalyk" and "Almatu" appeared on various medieval maps with the meaning "Apple". In the ancient Turkic tradition, "balyk" meant not only fish but also city. Examples: Khanbalyk, Beshbalyk, Ili-Balyk.
The term "Al" may trace back to the word "Alyp" — "great". In Turkic runica, "B" could transition into "M". Therefore, it is quite plausible that "Al-Balyk" → "Almalyk" → "Almaty", which may also mean "large settlement". However, the settlements located nearby — such as Talkhiz and Kastek — were larger than it in the medieval period.
This aligns with history: the capitals of Turkic states were indeed located in the Zhetysu region. Therefore, Almaty can genuinely position itself as the historical and spiritual centre of Turkic-speaking peoples.
— Speaking of the present day of our metropolis, how, in your view, should it develop?
— Almaty should have polycentres where people can preserve their identity, meet, and develop culturally: museums, visitor centres, small cultural spaces, places that allow a person to feel a connection with history and place.
For instance, a unique Saka kurgan complex must not be turned into land for development. In the western part of the city, we propose establishing a cultural centre based on the Boraldai kurgan. But it is equally important to work with the north — the area of First Almaty.
It has acquired a negative reputation, although it is a historically significant zone. There, we need to build museums, theatres and cultural centres to remove the image of a "backwater" and restore people's sense of safety and respect for the place.
— You often speak of the need for Almaty's transition to a green economy. Why is this so important?
— Almaty could become an example of an eco-city for other countries. We have environmental problems, especially in the lower part of the city. But we also have enormous potential. I am an advocate of transitioning to green energy — it may be costly, but otherwise we will ruin everything we have.
There are also urban planning mistakes from the past. Take Al-Farabi Avenue, for instance. It is a crucial thoroughfare, yet it has few interchanges and dense development. Had the bridges been built in time, we would not be stuck in traffic every evening. The wholesale market also overloads the roads — this is a major problem. It clogs the narrow streets, bringing the entire northern part of the city to a standstill. If the street had been relocated or transformed, traffic would have eased considerably. At the same time, the example of the Green Bazaar shows that a market can be integrated thoughtfully without disrupting the city.
— How can the efficiency of public transport be improved?
— We have good buses, but they run only until 9:30 pm. That is not enough for a metropolis where active life continues until around midnight. If buses ran at least until 12:30 am, people would be far less dependent on taxis.
Public transport is the key to reducing people's desire to buy cars, especially given our very poor parking situation. People arrive at 7 am to secure a spot before the working day begins. That is not normal.
— Which urban planning standards should be introduced in Almaty?
— It is very important to regulate architecture, building height, and even roof types. I support a unified design code — as in Switzerland, where houses are built so as not to spoil the view of the mountains. Here, by contrast, a mansion can sometimes be larger in scale than the entire neighbourhood. Urban planning should involve ecologists, historians, architects, representatives of the creative industries, and artisans.
We have a shortage of engineers, plumbers, and skilled workers, and the status of these professions is unjustifiably low. Another important detail: scheduled repairs should be banned in winter, and in summer they should be carried out in stages, without closing several streets in the same district at once. That paralyses traffic. If the heating networks were repaired properly, the city would benefit enormously.
— In what capacity are you yourself ready to contribute to the development of Almaty?
— Our foundation is working on the "Utuken" project — we want to popularise the ancient Turkic script and train around 5 million people in Kazakhstan and neighbouring countries. It is an attempt to restore the ancient Turkic identity that unites not only Turkic peoples but also Mongolian-speaking, Slavic, and Finno-Ugric communities.
We are also developing a project to reconstruct the ancient Turkic language. It is a bold idea that may draw criticism, but it has the power to bring people together. The Turkic script is unique: representatives of different peoples may read it differently, yet it is written the same way. This is a brilliant principle that accommodates regional linguistic variations.
— How do you see Almaty in the future?
— Almaty could become the centre of the Turkic world — cultural, spiritual, and intellectual. The city already influences what happens in the country and the region. The key is to develop it systematically, without erasing historical memory, while elevating the culture of its citizens, nurturing intellect, and fostering shared responsibility.
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