Photographer Ildar Sadykov remembers one of the first journeys of the legendary Khiva-Urgench trolleybus. Next year the route will mark 30 years. Opened in 1997, it remains popular with both local residents and tourists. The everyday life of the country's only trolleybus route is captured in Ildar Sadykov's photo essay.
For many tourists, especially foreign ones, riding a trolleybus to ancient Khiva is an exotic attraction. There are now only nine trolleybuses. Eight of them are always running, on the route, and one is undergoing maintenance. Each vehicle takes its turn in the depot, undergoes servicing and is thoroughly checked for roadworthiness.
Four green trolleybuses run from the Khiva side, and four from Urgench. They are put on the line simultaneously early in the morning, practically at dawn. And even on the first trip the trolleybus is often packed to capacity: people are travelling to work, to school, to universities. The interval between them is precise - exactly 20 minutes.
Punctuality is a very important characteristic of this well-known route. Each driver has his own timetable: even if he arrives at the final stop a minute early, he will wait out that minute on the approach to it, so as to arrive to the second.
The pleasure of a ride on the Khiva trolleybus costs just 3,000 soum. The journey takes about 50 minutes one way: in that time you will unhurriedly cover 32 kilometres.
Alisher aka has worked as a driver all his life. He went to Russia for a while to earn money, but came back. And now he says he will work on the Khiva-Urgench route until he retires. He really knows every metre of this road, every bump, and can drive it literally “with his eyes closed”. He drives smoothly, knows where to swerve correctly and where to go more gently. The “horns” still come off the overhead wires from time to time, but Alisher aka skilfully puts them back within a minute. I was struck by his knowledge of the route and the vehicle.
Riding the trolleybus is comfortable: the road surface is even, many flowers are planted along the highway, and all stops are according to regulations. Passengers will always come to your aid if you cannot pay your fare by card. Paying in cash really is not possible - a sign of the times.
Until recently, Czech trolleybuses ran on the route, and even Tashkent had no such models, but now the third generation of Chinese-made trolleybuses is entering service.
The interior is very comfortable, as if this electric vehicle had been designed specifically for long routes. Even for us Tashkent residents, who lost our trolleybuses long ago, riding this stretch in an electric vehicle is a separate kind of pleasure. I saw that many tourists deliberately choose this route, do not take a taxi and do not squeeze into a minibus that would get there much faster. They want an authentic experience.
The trolleybus in Khorezm is an exclusive. It operates on the principle of “a little of a good thing” and finishes work as early as 19:00. And at weekends not 8 but only 6 trolleybuses go out on the line.
The feeling you catch sitting by the trolleybus window is, of course, nostalgia. The measured swaying of the electric machine immerses you in a carefree performance. Admiring the view, thinking your own thoughts, going over memories. Sometimes you really miss that, and a leisurely road helps it along.
Preserving and maintaining in proper condition the only trolleybus route in Uzbekistan is very important. After all, it is one of the tourist brands of Khorezm region, and for the region's residents it is a dearly loved and very convenient daily route.
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