Khvoynaya Mountain: A Story of Overcoming | A Photo Essay

I love mountains and hiking. Despite my lifelong fear of heights, curiosity and professional enthusiasm get the better of me every time. Again and again, I find myself heading towards places where danger and fear await, but so do unique photographic opportunities.

This time, we set off for Archatog early in the morning, planning to walk three or four kilometres into the gorge. We had little time, as Sergey Pogosyan and I needed to return to Rishtan.

Photo: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei Pogosyan

It is a place of extraordinary beauty, deserted in March and ideal for hiking and photography. The tourist infrastructure has been developing in recent years, with holiday cottages and tapchans, traditional raised platforms for sitting and relaxing, available to rent by the mountain stream. I have also heard that pilgrims come here. I am not aware of any specific shrines, but perhaps they pray to the trees for good health and children.

An Island of Homeland: Shakhimardan — photo essayShakhimardan is one of the four officially recognised Uzbek enclaves within Kyrgyzstan, a place associated with the fourth righteous caliph Ali and the freethinking poet Hamza. It is also a mountain resort beloved by Uzbeks and one of the most beautiful corners of the Alay Mountains, where the swift waters of the Koksu and Oksu rivers cool the scorching air rising from the valley below, bringing long-awaited relief. During our March expedition through the Fergana Region, we travelled there to prepare traditional sumalyak together with local residents. In this photo essay by Ildar Sadykov and Sergei Pogosyan, a festive episode from the life of an ordinary family living in this almost fairy-tale landscape.mag.humodoc.com

That spring morning, however, in the quiet of the early hours, we made our way deeper into the gorge without stopping to look at anything along the way.

Photo: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei Pogosyan

I had passed through here in 2022 and promised myself I would return. Back then, the climb had been extremely difficult. Age, I thought at the time. Yet I also promised myself that on my next visit I would overcome my weakness. Above all, I wanted to confront my fear of heights, which had not left me alone for a single moment.

This time, our goal was to get as far as possible. We walked without stopping. With every step, I grew more surprised at myself: despite the steady ascent, I seemed to feel no fatigue at all.

Photo: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei Pogosyan

We came right up to the rocks, intending to climb them. I scrambled high up and stood above the precipice, where Sergey Pogosyan took a photograph that became deeply symbolic for me. The rock I was standing on jutted out over the abyss. The photo shoot lasted seven or eight minutes. A cold sweat broke out all over me, but I held my ground.

Despite the difficult trail, the obstacles and patches of snow that had yet to melt, which made the climb harder still, we reached our goal. At one point, I felt both fatigue and fear simply evaporate. I had won! Tears of relief and joy streamed down my face.

Photo: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei Pogosyan

The hike passed in a single breath and became a genuine breakthrough for me. Thanks to the friend who stayed by my side and to my own determination, I overcame an inner barrier. A great deal changed after that climb, first and foremost within me. This short journey through these secluded natural surroundings became a story of overcoming myself, my fears, my doubts and my lack of faith in my own abilities.

I had grown into a stronger version of myself, and expeditions have become easier for me since then. Yes, my fear of heights has not disappeared completely, and perhaps overcoming it entirely would be difficult at my age. But it has lost some of its hold over me. Since then, I have “conquered” the Baysun Mountains and the Hissar Range. I hope there are other peaks still ahead.

Photo: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei PogosyanPhoto: Ildar Sadykov, Sergei Pogosyan

It is fascinating that the tree-like juniper symbolises endurance and longevity. The sacralisation of nature and trees is a lingering echo of prehistoric human beliefs that have survived in our culture. In places like Archatog, this ancient connection between people and nature feels especially tangible.

And so, a single hike, lasting no more than a few hours from early morning until lunchtime, was enough to change the way I see the world. So go to the mountains. Take unexplored paths or follow well-trodden trails. Discover yourself in the embrace of nature. Breathe in the air of the juniper forest, and grow stronger in both body and spirit.