A small village with a non-Uzbek name "Shröder" lies on both sides of the road between Fergana and the ancient town of Kuva, the birthplace of the scholar al-Fergani. It was here that I came across preparations for welcoming a local resident, an elderly woman. Let us call her Sharofat-opa.
Driving by and becoming an accidental witness to the ongoing preparations, I was immediately intrigued. I had never seen anything like it before. I was welcomed very warmly and allowed to photograph the preparations for the event.
The day begins early in the morning. They are preparing to welcome a wife, mother, grandmother, sister and neighbour who is deeply respected by both her family and the entire settlement. For many people here it is also a day of celebration. Numerous relatives gather in the house of the newly returned umrah-haji, while neighbours assemble outside.
First I am invited into the house. The large courtyard is buzzing with activity. A separate area has been set aside for cooking shurpa and plov. The cooking is handled by male cooks, while the women assist them. The yard is full of children, as it always is during a family celebration.
On this important day Sharofat-opa’s son left early for Fergana to meet her at the airport. At the same time, a 1.5-km long path home is being prepared for her return. The sight is remarkably colourful. Neighbours bring out whatever they can, spreading their kurpacha quilts and blankets along the road and covering them with clean sheets to form a long ceremonial path. Just before the house, where the path ends, women begin dancing and clapping their hands in rhythm.
When the car arrives, Sharofat-opa is greeted first by the women of the family, sisters, daughters and granddaughters. The embraces are especially warm in those first moments. Several younger women repeatedly attempt to bow down and kiss Sharofat-opa’s feet, but she firmly stops them. At one point she even raises her voice. Deep respect should not turn into worship, she reminds them, for one may bow only before Allah.
Along the entire “road of honour”, neighbours and children line both sides. Sharofat-opa and her relatives offer the villagers Zamzam holy water, while they present her with bouquets of flowers.
About 200 metres from Sharofat-apa's house another ceremonial path has been laid out, this time opposite the house where the village elders live. Her first step is to greet them, as if sharing the blessing with the most respected members of the community.
Only after that do her sons approach their mother. Finally, seated by the entrance to the house, is Sharofat-opa’s husband. When they meet, both burst into tears as he gently congratulates her on completing the pilgrimage.
After this, all family members enter the house. From that moment the neighbours quickly gather up their quilts and blankets so that they can follow and pay their respects to the heroine of the day in her home.
In her courtyard Sharofat-opa sits at a separate table together with the village elders. After the ceremonial du’a, the Uzbek feast begins. Hearty dishes start being served, and a separate table is set for the children.
Despite the splendour of the preparations, the celebration itself does not last long. Sharofat-opa is tired after the journey and needs to rest.
The tradition of sending the most respected person in a village for Umrah is particularly common in rural communities. Yet this was the first time I had witnessed such a colourful and moving ceremony. It is important to note that the funds for Sharofat-opa’s pilgrimage were collected by the entire village. This reflects respect for the older generation, personal hopes and prayers, and a shared wish for well-being for everyone involved. Such well-being is not divided but multiplied with every kind wish and good deed.
What struck me most of all was that among the many neighbours and relatives gathered there, I did not see a single envious face. Every resident of Shröder rejoiced sincerely, as if welcoming their own mother home.