The early nineteenth century was a period of rapid expansion for the Kokand Khanate. Under the rule of Alim, Umar and Madali, its territories grew considerably, and its influence spread far beyond the Fergana Valley.
In 1808, Tashkent, which had previously remained independent, also came under Kokand rule. The Kokand Khanate stretched across vast territories, its borders reinforced by chains of fortresses, while the Fergana Valley remained the political and cultural core of the state. Its diverse population included nomadic Uzbek tribes, settled Sarts and mountain Kyrgyz communities, a mix that largely shaped the character of the khanate. The Kokand court became renowned not only for its political influence and military campaigns, but also as a major literary centre. The poetesses Nadira, Uvaysi and Makhzuna gained fame far beyond the borders of the khanate.
By the second half of the nineteenth century, constant coups, elite rivalries and palace intrigues had weakened the Kokand court. A civilisational shift was approaching. Khudayar Khan lost his throne three times and regained it twice, attempting to secure his rule not only through increased taxation but also through ambitious construction projects. Thus, the grandeur of the ruler who erected a lavish palace on the Urda, built by thousands of the finest craftsmen, eventually fell at the feet of the Russian authorities who had once supported his influence…
Kokand was once known as the “city of 300 mosques”. Little now remains of its former splendour, and yet I genuinely cannot understand why tourists are not flocking to this city. I come here often, and every time I visit the palace in search of inspiration. Only half of the original palace complex, completed in 1870, has survived, but fortunately the interiors remain remarkably well preserved. It is one of the most beautiful buildings in the country. The astonishing variety of decorative detail, for which we must thank the masters of Rishtan and Kashgar, is extraordinary: no two mosaic patterns on the façade are alike.
Ildar Sadykov
By the beginning of the twentieth century, Kokand still retained immense importance for the entire Fergana Valley. With a population of around 87,000, it remained one of the region’s largest centres of trade and craftsmanship, second only to Tashkent. The economic boom associated with industrial development and the arrival of the railway would come later, while in the early years of Russian rule the empire’s military presence was especially tangible: a Russian garrison was stationed directly inside the former khan’s palace.
What impresses me most is the throne room. The ceilings. The mosaics. The luxurious European furniture. And despite all this splendour, the courtyards of the residence still feel peaceful and serene. I come here for inspiration and cool air.
Ildar Sadykov
The khan’s jewel-encrusted throne was, however, taken to St. Petersburg and is now kept in the Hermitage. But the spirit of its great past could not be removed.
Nineteen rooms have survived in Khudayar Khan’s palace. Today, the building houses a surprisingly good local history museum with six departments. Visitors can learn not only about the turbulent history of the powerful khanate, but also about members of the ruling family, whose lineage continues to this day.
Kokand is truly a city of remarkable history. Throughout its existence, it has been a centre of craftsmanship and religion, a city of musicians, poets, expatriate industrialists and bankers. Even now, it remains a jewel on the vibrant map of the Fergana Valley.
I have never seen so many schoolchildren at a historical site anywhere else in Uzbekistan. They come here in entire classes to study their culture. The people of Kokand deeply respect their history. This city holds many treasures.
Ildar Sadykov
Rulers replace one another at dizzying speed, and eras disappear forever. Yet, as always, the defining core of every civilisation remains art: traditional or innovative, monumental or barely perceptible to those attentive enough to recognise its value.
