On World Circus Day, we set out to capture the routines of Uzbekistan’s travelling circus troupes through the lens of photographer Ildar Sadykov. If “routines” is even the right word for this remarkable art form, which remains a symbol of an unending celebration.
I do not remember organised travelling circuses from my childhood. It feels as though the tradition returned after the collapse of the Soviet Union, when traditional street performances were revived as a means of livelihood. Yet in my memories, I recall jugglers, strongmen, fire-breathers, and fire-eaters. Every time I find myself at a circus performance, the child in me rejoices.
Ildar Sadykov
Since 1966, when a permanent building for the state circus appeared in the capital, the art form began to develop in a more structured way. Some itinerant performers joined permanent troupes in major cities, while others faded into the background. The revival of the tradition came during the years of independence, and today it follows its own path, while the professional circus follows another.
Travelling troupes earn their living "from the hat", surviving on voluntary contributions from the audience. This brings them closer to the people and allows them to continue their work. Today, inviting darbaz performers to celebrations has become an established tradition. Their performances are an essential part of public festivities, taking place in city squares or directly in the streets of villages.
I have photographed travelling circuses in four regions: the village of Gelan in Kashkadarya, Rishtan, the Sokh enclave in the Fergana Valley, and Tashkent. And everywhere I saw children’s joy, the audience’s genuine delight, and a warmth and sincerity that cannot be found in formal circus arenas.
Ildar Sadykov
Children are always part of these street circus troupes. Performances often begin with a young hereditary performer presenting acrobatic acts, while the audience offers small donations. This is symbolic, as children are seen as the ones who carry the tradition forward. They are followed by acrobats with weights, fire-eaters, jugglers, strongmen, and comic clowns with sad eyes. The culmination of the performance is usually a tightrope walking act.
In Sokh, I photographed a travelling circus during Nawruz. The entire performance was based on the tricks of the darbozes. There was a boy of about nine. You could see that he was afraid, yet he completed the entire act without faltering. Even with safety support he climbed to the very top. He performed with great professionalism, and at the end his eyes were shining. It was deeply moving to see how the older performers supported him. The festive performance against the backdrop of the mountains, surrounded by the whole village, left a powerful impression.
Ildar Sadykov
A travelling troupe moves in a small bus. There they change clothes, rest after performances, and sleep between stops. They carefully preserve their old, often worn-out sound equipment, including crackling speakers and microphones, as communication with the audience has always been an essential part of the show.
In remote mountain villages, people are not accustomed to frequent spectacles. In Gelan, where I had the chance to attend a night performance, there was a large crowd. In such places, troupes often stay for several days or even a week, and every performance draws an audience. Improvised stalls with sweets, candy floss and balloons quickly appear for the children.
Ildar Sadykov
Circus performances have become especially popular during public celebrations, particularly Nawruz. Beyond entertaining the crowd, travelling troupes today also introduce tourists and visitors to Uzbekistan's cultural heritage. In Rishtan, where these photographs were taken last year, darbaz performers took part in the opening of an international ceramics festival attended by artisans from around the world. For many foreign visitors, such a performance was entirely new and undoubtedly unforgettable.
In the age of digital media, vast LED screens and high-tech concert arenas, the street circus, with its raw sound and absence of dazzling lights, remains something unique. From ancient times to the present day, it has never lost its main purpose: to spark immediate joy, light up children's eyes and allow adults, if only for a moment, to forget their worries.
Perhaps only those who spend half their lives beneath the open sky truly understand the effort it takes to travel endlessly from one place to another in order to keep this tradition alive.
